SIR_Pierre Sir Malmö

Blogg

mer problem 30 september 2007, 22:33

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … 822#200822



PROJEKT!! 14 september 2007, 14:57

ja.. då va den FORTFARANDE inte klar.. men iallafall utseendemässigt så orkar nån ta snygga bilder till mej som ja kan lägga upp här så säg gärna till.

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … 000#200000



Äntligen fått mina nya Test pipes 23 augusti 2007, 17:14

se sista inlägget som vanligt

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … 906#198906



Fått hem lite prylar 20 augusti 2007, 18:10

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … 750#198750

sista inlägget.

nu väntar ja bara på grejerna från USA....och att allt ska monteras givetvis



vad jag väntar på 22 juli 2007, 16:42

Ja..Japmeet gick åt helvete.. höger broms fram brann så vid varje inbromsning så slängde den ut baken...vilket slutade med att ja åkte av två gånger.


men driftingen gick bra ;)

kör med original kattarna nu och utan packningar..bilen låter och går skit.

fick själv stå för kostnaden att skicka upp mina trasiga Test pipes till Kinetix..mycket dåligt. plus att det kostar mej av montering av dom. montering av original kattarna och en ny lambdasond...men motorlampan lyser ändå.

så nu väntar vi på den sista kablen till mitt Greddy E Ultimate så jag kan få bilen mappad och funka som den ska.
Stillen A stolbar i äkta kolfiber (mätarhållare)
Megan racing mätare (oljetemp och tryck)
Greddy Sandwich
Megan racing Kolfiber stolar( skenor,bälten och harness bar)
få nya test Pipes eller kattar
Svetsa det som spruckit på Nismo systemet
Nya packningar
byta bromsklossarna IGEN! och MÅSTE fixa ventilation till dom
ev nya kamaxlar...vet inte vilka jag ska ha bara..tips?

fan alltså...pengar pengar pengar...



inte kul alls... 8 juli 2007, 20:16

innan Japmeet o allt

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … 328#196328



Monterat Coilovers 5 juni 2007, 01:00

Jepp då har jag fått på mina Coilovers. till att börja med...vilken jävla styrrespons den har nu!!!

trodde vi hade bra innan men nu jävlar.

först så monterade vi av Original grejerna och la brevid dom nya..höjde dom nya så dom var i samma höjd som OEM..monterade på bilen..då var bilen 4cm högre än original!!

så pass mycket hårdare är dom nya

dom främde där sitter ju fjäder och ben i samma.. inga problem alls där att sänka. så där sänkte vi 2cm

sen på dom bakre så sänkte vi först bara benet...det gick inte för sej alls.. för då var det sånt jävla tryck i fjädern så när vi sänkte benet max nog för att ändå kunna montera så var bilen 0.5cm högre än oem

så då sänkte vi fjädern till botten..men ändå så var den bara 1cm längre än oem.....väldigt konstigt...trodde man skulle kunna sänka den som faaan....fram kan man ju det iallafall.... så nu tror jag att jag får höja den 1cm fram. men det tar vi i morgon

den blev helt ok med dom förlängda justerarmarna i bågen.. men givetvis så är fingerkänslan borta..lite svårare att känna stegen när man skruvar


bilder hittar ni i Projekttråden

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/viewtopic.p … p;start=45

http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_al … _album.php



Mina Motor Mods (beskrivningar) 15 april 2007, 03:29

The VQ35DE is very advanced V6 engine. The VQ does not react the same to engine mods as some of the more basic engines available. It has great potential for high power gaines, but is also a great engine as it comes stock. Th engine in the 350z is fairly new to the aftermarket world, leaving alot of research and development still to be done. Then engine can be built to handle at least double that of the stock 287hp. There are several paths that can be chosen when modding the 350z's engine, each of which depends on your personal goals for power, reliability, and cost. We have put together a guide based on 350z owners' experiences and proven mods. We have broken the guide up into stages which may help some people plan out their modding experience. This is a work in progress.







1:Stillen Grounding Kit

kit consists of several heavy gauge wires used to assist in electical conduction between engine components and the car's computers. Whether it's a five wire or seven wire this mod should be a consideration. Better grounding has been shown to improve horsepower, torque, fuel mileage, and throttle response. The degree of improvements will vary between cars. The improved grounding can also smooth a rough idle caused by electro-magnetic interference (EMI) as well as reduce light dimming when operating a high powered stereo system.
The Stillen 350Z Ground Kit is used because there is too much electromagnetic interference for the ECM to operate at peak efficiency. Thus you will produce about 2-4HP Gaines.

Increased Horse Power & Torque
Awesome Looks
Faster Shifts on Automatics
Improved Mileage
Reduced Emissions
Stronger & Faster Starts
Smoother Idle
More Responsive Acceleration
Reduced Audio Noise
Improved Electrical Accessory Performance (brighter lights, windows/sunroofs operate faster, better radio reception, etc.)




K&N’s Typhoon Cold-Air Intake System

Powered by Nissan’s award-winning 3.5-liter V-6, the 350Z’s powerplant produces 287 horsepower at the crankshaft. With the Typhoon® system installed, testing on K&N’s Dynojet 248 dynamometer showed a 10-12 average horsepower increase at the 350Z’s rear wheels.
Unique intake tracting, unlike any existing K&N Typhoon® kit, makes the impressive power gains possible. Cool air is drawn into the system through a roto-molded plastic intake scoop that mounts behind the 350Z’s front fascia. Incoming air travels through this scoop into a 2.5" OD, 6061 aluminum delivery tube en route to a 5-way airbox. K&N’s 350Z Typhoon kit includes a carbon-fiber lid, created in K&N’s advanced-composites shop, for the ultimate high tech performance look.
Inside the airbox is K&N’s famous FilterCharger®. The filtration surface is constructed of four layers of pleated, oil-impregnated cotton sandwiched between epoxy-coated aluminum wire mesh. As with all K&N air filters, this FilterCharger® can be cleaned and re-oiled with a K&N ReCharger® Kit (sold separately).
Filtered air then travels to the engine through a mandrel-bent, 3" aluminum induction tube. This one-piece, straight-through tube has a billet aluminum adapter for the engine’s mass-airflow sensor. The adapter is located in the optimal position to maximize airflow and is TIG-welded to the intake tube.








Nismo S-tune 350Z Cat-Back Exhaust System

Weight plays a factor here, as well as how deep you want to dig into your wallet. A high flow exhaust system will remove exhaust restrictions and allow all future mods to achieve their maximum power potential. The 350z comes standard with 2 catalytic converters merged with a y-pipe into a single pipe with dual exit tips. A cat-back exhaust will replace all of the exhaust after the cats.
Replace your stock system w/ the best sounding exhaust system on the market for the 350Z.









Kinetix Test pipes

These pipes completely remove your factory catalytic converters and relplaces them with a straight through design. This provides the absolute most flow possible which has shown gains on NA 350zs between 4-8HP making it one of the best "bang for the buck" mods. These pipes are an abosulte must on FI cars which need all the flow possible.
These pipes will definately make your exhaust note more aggressive. They have also tended to add a "raspy" exhaust note through the 3-4k range. This note has been loved by some, and hated by others, so it is not for the conservative.








Kinetix Racing V+ Plenum

This plenum increases the volume to the middle and more importantly the front cylinders. The factory plenum utilizes a very aggressive angle as it caps off the front cylinders. This new plenum equalizes the flow to all cylinders, while also increasing the total plenum volume. This plenum also uses a very versatile plastic to achieve a smooth interior for superior flow properties. The plastic also allows a lighter overall weight, by about 3 lbs. The overall temperatures of the plenum have also decreased by about 50 degrees farenheit. This helps with heat soak problems and to help lower air intake temperatures.
Our plenum has shown a solid peak gain of 14 rwhp and a consistent gain throughout the RPM range. When matched up with our high flow cats, they together have shown peak gains of 20 rwhp.







Radiator Guide

Makes a dramatic improvement on the look of your engine bay as well as guiding air directly into the radiator for slightly better cooling efficiency.







Unorthodox Racing Pulley Set

UR pulleys add close to 12-20HP on all Models. Horsepower increases are very noticeable due to the fact that UR pulleys primarily gain low-end torque. The main purpose of the underdrive pulley is to lose as much weight off the crank pulley, and turn that extra lost weight into HP Gains.







Megan Racing Stainless Steel Headers

Four words: Long Tube, Equal Length = WOW Replacing the restrictive stock manifold with the equal length/long tube design of headers will allow better and more efficient exhaust scavenging which improves horsepower and torque in the mid to upper rpm range.
Each individual exhaust port is treated to its own separate primary tube instead of merely dumping into the shared main pipe of a stock manifold. The equal length primary pipes converge at a single, larger diameter point or collector. The collector then leads to the main exhaust pipe. Gains have averaged anywhere from 10 to 20 rwhp from most aftermarket headers.









Stillen Engine Dampener Brace

No HP gain from this mod, but it does remove vibration from the motor, which may cause you to spend some serious $'s to fix in the future. Engine torque dampers are designed to stabilize engine movement under excessive driving conditions by connecting the chassis and engine. Restricting engine movement with a preloaded engine damper, you will feel the engine response much more clearly. Engine torque will not be lost in vibrations and engine movement under throttle.
When an engine moves excessively in its mounts, energy is wasted. Stillen's engine stabilizer converts this wasted motion into forward momentum. An isolastic mount acts as a shock absorber and dampens unwanted motion. With no hydraulic parts to wear or fade in use, this is a long term solution.
In theory an engine damper directs more HP to the wheels by coupling the engine's wasted motion directly to the vehicle's chassis.
Viewed from the front, your engine's crankshaft rotates in a clockwise* direction. Due to the various laws of physics, this causes the engine block itself to rotate in the opposite counterclockwise direction.
As the author Robert Heinlein once said "There's no such thing as a free lunch". Meaning that it takes energy to rotate the engine block (and transmission) on it's mounts. This is considered to be "wasted motion", since you are expending horsepower to rotate the engine instead of rotating your tires.
By coupling the upper engine assembly directly to the chassis (with a dampening device), we are slowing the rate at which this wasted motion can be applied. Thus, directing more power to the wheels.
So is this part a good idea? Sure, on a 500+ HP car where damage to motor mounts may occur without using some form of damper.
Benefits:

Improved off-the-line acceleration
Improved vehicle stability
Reduced shock loads on driveline components
Smoother shifting
Reduced wear on exhaust system joints
Less vibration transmission to the driver compared to polyurethane motor mounts.
Less shock load, compared to torque straps and chains.
Drifting helps reduce shock loads when wheels gain traction.
Reduces motor movement; decreases the chance of motor parts rubbing against the hood and frame.



SPONSORER?? 12 mars 2007, 00:02

Har suttit o räknat nu lite på vad jag behöver ha gjort med bilen efter denna uppgradering som e på gång nu,
och gärna innan sommaren sparkar igång med banträffar

har räknat på billiga prylar nu

Megan Racing Headers 4600kr ( är i billigaste laget..vet inte om jag litar på dom.annars ostar det med det dubbla för annat fabrikat)

Megan racing Coilovers 13220kr (samma sak där. kostar 20.000kr annat fabrikat)

Pulley Kitt lätt begagnad. suttit på men aldrig använt ca 3000kr

Unichip så fort dom får det till min bil ca 6000kr

och bromsar då.. blir tyvär inga nya OK eftersom jag måste snåla
Skivor fram Performance Friction 2-delad (fullflytande) med nav i alu 4000kr styck

DBA 4000 slitsade skivor bak (par): 4530:-

Stålomspunna slangar, StopTech: ~1200 fram, ~900:- bak

Belägg Carbotech XP8: 1760:- fram, 1590:- bak

om jag inte köper D2 racing 8 kolvs OK,365 skivor och klossar för 16000kr. men det e bara fram

Däck, tror jag ska ha Pilot sport denna gången
fram och bak och med inköps pris 10620kr

Nismo vinge i Kolfiber lackad o monterad ca 6000kr

vilket blir 61370 kr som allra billigast räknat

och då har jag inte alls räknat monterings pengar på nått av det andra

sen då så SKULLE jag VILJA ha Nismo 19 tummare,Kolfiber huv och en Rotrex kompressor.
men då behövs den nya stakar, ny koppling och då lättat svänghjul osv osv osv osv

och lätt räknat så är det en 150.000kr där.... och sen då lätta stolar,kolfiber lucka osv osv osv...finns nog inget stopp



Top Gear Survey 27 februari 2007, 02:05

över ALLA bilar 2006 så kom 350Z på 36.e plats på listan om dom bästa bilarna att äga allmänt...helt ok. men tycker det e konstigt med tanke på hur dyr den är att äga--men bra placering allmänt .-sportbils klassen är ju inte stor



och över dom 10 absolut roligaste/sportigaste bilarna att köra så kom den på 6.e plats över alla bilar i heeela världen.

och min är fan så mycket roligare hehe




Sågs senast: 2024-05-30 00:43
Medlem sedan: 17 januari 2007
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