17963/P1555 - Boost Pressure Control: Upper Limit Exceeded
Possible Symptoms
Reduced power output
Limp mode
Possible Causes
Boost Pressure too High
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles
17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
Possible Symptoms
Engine starting but stalling immediately
Possible Causes
Key(s) not matched
Instrument Cluster not matched
Engine Control Unit (ECU) not matched
Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply faulty
Possible Solutions
Check for Fault Codes in Immobilizer itself (part of Instrument Cluster in many cars, but separate Immobilizer Control Module in some)
Check Immobilizer Measuring Values (usually in Instrument Cluster OR Immobilizer Control Module)
Match Key(s)/Instrument Cluster/Engine Control Unit (ECU)
Check Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply (Relay)
Special Notes
In case of Engine Starting Issues please make sure that you are really experience an Immobilizer related Problem! Even if the Immobilizer engages, the Engine will still start fine but cut out after 2-3 Seconds. If you are NOT experiencing this behavior (e.g. Engine doesn't start at all) your Problem is very likely NOT Immobilizer related.
May be stored in Combination with 01176 - Key: Signal too Low in Immobilizer Control Module.
If no other immobilizer related fault codes are stored and the immobilizer related meas. blocks are fine except Engine Start not allowed, on rare occasions it helps to try cold-booting the car. Remove both battery cables from the battery. Short the battery cables together (away from the battery) for about 15 seconds. Reconnect the battery. (Example)
Low battery voltage (including a faulty battery) may cause Immobilizer system malfunctions and testing should be done only with a known good battery installed.
16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Loss of Power
Possible Causes
Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70) faulty
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70)
Check/Replace Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70)
Special Notes
In MY 1995-2002 (?) in Europe at VW-diesel-cars G70 had the bad reputation of slowly losing his performance, causing loss of power. It's not a matter of defective or breaking down, but it is filthy / dirty (not easy to clean). You can check functionality by making a log in [01-engine], [meas.blocks-08], group 003 (3e gear, full throttle, from 1700-4000rpm)
16500/P0116/000278 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
Starting the engine when engine is warmish or warm, idle rpm immediately is 1200 - 3000 rpm.
Diesel: an indication is extreme long time burning time of the glow indication light.
With all engine temperatures seldom idle rpm will vary between 900 - 1000 rpm.
With engine warm (90 °C) the engine temperature suddenly drops (70 °C) and slowly comes back to 90 °C.
Possible Causes
Wiring and/or connections faulty
Engine Coolant Sensor (G62) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check wiring and connections
Replace Engine Coolant Sensor (G62)
Special Notes
In MY 1995-2002 (?) in Europe at VW-cars the G2/G62 had the bad reputation of breaking down often. The default G2/G62 is black and all replacements are green.
Check if the correct Coolant Fan Control Module/Relay is installed (check part number using parts catalogue)!
Inte ovanligt att tempgivaren ger upp, inte heller ovanligt att N75:an ger upp ELLER kablarna (i det fallet är det inte ovanligt att de ger upp inne i "gummihatten" på ovansidan av kontakten).
Tempgivaren är troligen en fyrpolig; två till ECU:n och två till kombiinstrumentet. Tempmätaren behöver alltså inte "dippa" eller vara död, för att "delen" av givaren som skickar signaler till ECU:n ska vara kass. Vilket då gör att bilen tror att den är kall även när den inte är det.
Immo-delen hade jag inte brytt mig om om du inte har problem att starta bilen. Det är en felkod som ibland kastas när man startat bilen med låg spänning i batteriet.
Senast redigerat av it_mutt (20 december 2018)
Shit! -What? Rollers. -No? Yep. -Shit!