Letade länge runt om i Sverige och Europa men hittade inga A/E till min nyinköpta bil tlls jag började surfa runt på amerikanska forum. Där dök denna upp:
Hur kan man missa såna :) 1042SEK kostade de utan frakt. Men när jag fick de och monterade blev jag "fascinerad"/"Överaskad" you name it. Tänkte lägga upp denna då ni som är intresserade eller vill installera kan göra det. DÅ menar jag de icke "mad scientist" grabbarna som är på god väg till å bli det :)
FINNS TILL FLER BIL MODELLER!!
Finns i Sverige nu också dessa, som en hjälplig skäl länkade mig och det verkar som om de är samma. Dock på deras "instruktionsfilm" heter det Aurora och inte Predator V2, och färgerna som man kan välja är bara 4300k och 7000k, vilket inte är allternativen för en V2:a. En annan grej jag hackade mig på var att från varje ring på xenonkungens produkter går det 2 kablar, + och -. Men från V2 går det 4 kablar från varje ring. Men dömma ska jag itne göra, för att jag är här för att hjälpa och inte ställa till debatt :)
Observera dock att först kom:
1-Aurora
2-Orion Chromium
3-Orion Predator V1
4-Orion Predator V2
Nu till saken: fick hem de, installerade i ca. 5h, dels för att det var min första gång och dels för att jag kopplade de så att de skulle tändas när jag låser upp bilen och släckas när jag låser den, och viktigast av allt, SKULLE SE NÄST INTILL ORIGINALT UT OCH ITNE SYNAS!!
Xenonkungens länk till A/E:
http://www.xenonkungen.com/se/art/bmw-l … l-eyes.php
Instruktionsfilmen till A/E:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwgYvEu7 … embedded#!
Möjligen Aurora? 2kablar fårn xenon kungens:
Orion Predator V2 med 4 kablar ur vardera ring:
Detta KAN vara en möjlig skillnad om V2 A/E inte är likadana som Xenonkungens produkt, obs! Kan vara:)
Nedan kommer lite info på engelska med bilder och installation och lite bilder på min sida.
Orion V2™ has the following most important features:
Chromium backing
Why settle for any bleeding of light out the back of your rings. Get ones that are crisp and clean.
60 LED ARRAY
High Output 10000mcd LEDs. First of their kind on the market.
Surface Mount LED with over 175 degree output.
Multi-Stage Clipping System
That's right, no need to decide for only 2 clips. Now you have the ability to install the clip in ANY configuration, 2 clicks? no problem, 3 clicks? no problem? 4 clicks? no problem. This solves the one issue that facelifted sedans (02-05 E46 3-series sedans) with trim piece fitment.
Carry-Over Features
Lifetime Warranty
Remote Fade/On Fade/Off
PolyCarbonate UV Coated Rings
The Best fitting product
100K Hours Expected Life
Easier Installation than ANY OTHER KIT
Product Description (may describe some optional equipment):
4 Halos - The brightest halos ever produced.
1 full wiring harness
Multi-Stage Clipping System (why settle for only 2, when you can have MANY)
Lifetime warranty
Online Instructions - Linked Install Resources Section
All Hardware and Installation Included
Headlights & Car Sold Separately
Benefits:
Updated Look
Allows you to clear or black out your turn signal at the same time
Can be wired as DRL (daytime running lights)
Significant improvement in visual appeal of car
Very Bright/Neo Modern Look
Pure White (custom colors available on special order only)
No Light Box
Application (Please consult your owner's manual for your application fitment type):
All 1999-2005 Sedans
All 2000-2003 Coupes (with non-sealed lights)
All 2000-2006 M3 (all lights similar to 2000-2003 Coupe Lights)
All 1995-2001 7-series
All 1997-2000 5-series
All 2001-2002 X5 (with corrected OFFSET RING SIZES FOR HIGH AND LOW BEAM)
All 2002-2005 E65 (REQUIRES CUTTING HEADLIGHTS OPEN <-- Inquire With Umnitza) NEW!
All 1992-1999 3-series (E36) with Euro Headlights
Fits All Halogen, Xenon, BiXenon, and Adaptive Xenon Lights
INSTALL TIPPS:
1
-The rear is covered with a full backing that holds the LED system in place. There are no external solder points on the back.
-The covering serves as an insulation so there are no exposed points of power that could potentially lead to a short in the circuit.
-The photo shown has additional pads that will not be on a finished ring that you receive, they were originally put there to stabilize the ring, but that is not necessary giving some proprietary mounting techniques being used.
-The clipping system is designed to clip onto all types of headlights. The multiple teeth allow you to have the proper fit no matter what application
-It's length is sufficient for all applications
-The clips are very high tension, meaning that once they hold onto something, they don't let go. In the past, depending on how you installed the products, you might have a clip releasing from the ring itself. -That will be nearly impossible with this product.
-Also note that the cover discussed in the previous photo is visible here for great "clarity" of what was discussed earlier.
-Please notice that there is NO exposed wiring
-Please also notice that the ring goes all the way to the top of the ring, it does not break 3/4 of the way up and it does not have an exposed parts other than the ring itself
-This is most important part of the rings here - it's CLEAR
-Also please notice the slim profile of the LEDs so that they are not visible when off.
Standard 6000K
Perfect Fit Every Time
Perfect Fit on Facelifted Sedan
AMBER
RED & BLUE
ORION V2 Gold
Predator ORION™ V2 60LED Angel Eye Kit
("Always On" method)
NOTE: This DIY guide was created using the Predator ORIONTM V2 60LED Angel Eye Kit only. Not for any other kit.
Vehicle used: 2003.5 BMW M3 Coupe with Bi-Xenon headlights. Install should be similar for 2001-2006.
Tools Required
-Phillips Screw Driver (corner lamps)
-Flat Head Screw Driver (optional for headlight cover)
-Pliers (handy to have)
-Electrical Tape
-Thin Copper Wire (to use as a wire fish)
-10mm Socket or Wrench (ground nut, coolant reservoirs)
-Adjustable Wrench (positive battery terminal)
-T25 Torx Bit (ECU box cover)
-Wire Loom (optional)
-Zip Ties (optional)
-Silicone or Liquid Electrical Tape (optional)
Parts
Installation
Install Time: (anywhere from 30-90min., if you had to do it a second time it will be much quicker)
Before you begin:
a) Inspect and test your kit prior to installing. If anything is not working, best to get it replaced before taking your headlights apart.
b) Pop open your hood.
c) Get lots of water if you dehydrate fast. :)
Installation
Step 1. Headlight lense removal
(Driver's side shown, Passenger side similar)
1a) Remove the turn signal corner lamp. Use a Philips Screw Driver to loosen the retaining screw as pictured below. The screw does not come out so don't keep turning or you'll be turning forever. Once loosen, slide the corner lamp forward and undo the bulb connector. Set the lamp aside.
1b) Remove the rubber trim surrounding the top/side of your headlight.You can easily undo the top 3 tabs with your fingers by lifting the tabs from behind. The two tabs on side might be easier with a flat head screw driver.
1c) Remove the lower painted headlight trim.If you have the cold weather package with the headlight washer like I do, it will be easier if you did not remove the entire trim. Start by unlatching the trim from the end closest to the grill then the latch that is visible from where the corner lamp was removed. To unlatch you simply reach from behind and unhook it similar to how your removed the rubber trim. If you have the headlight washer, you do not need to disconnect it, just tilt the trim piece out as far as you can. That should give you enough clearance. If you do not have the headlight washer it's up to you if you want to remove it entirely or just tilt it out.
1d) Remove the clear headlight cover lense.Tools aren't really necessary here. There are three plastic tabs on top, one on the side, and three on the bottom that must be unlatched. Carefully pull up on each tab till it releases from lense. As you work your way around each tab you should be able to remove the lense by sliding it out.
1e) Remove the OEM inner trim bezelThe bezel simply pulls straight out. No tools needed.
1f) Repeat the above steps on the passenger headlight.
Step 2) Mounting Predator ORION™ V2 60LED Angel Eyes Rings
2a) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the DRL (Day Time Running Lights, also called High Beam Flasher).At the top of the reflector is a lip. Simply slide the alligator clip at the top of the Angel Eyes onto the top of the reflector lip. See image below for proper spacing of the clips. You do not push both clips all the way in, only the inner clip (closest to grill) is pushed all the way while the other clip (closest to the Bi-Xenon projector) has some spacing. The easiest way to do this is to slide both clips in till the ring lines up with the outside of the reflector. Now look over the Angel Eye ring to make sure it's even all the way around and lined up. Take a view from the front and make sure the sides are even and the ring is centered. If not shift it to the left or right to center it.
2b) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the Bi-Xenon projector.The same process applies to ring for the headlights. Push the clips in till the ring lines up. Simply push it till it gets within 1-2mm from the top of the projector housing. The ring should be completely vertical when looking at it from the side. See image below for the correct and incorrect way to installing it.
2c) (Optional) Remove the intake duct from the air box.This will provide additional room to work behind the driver's headlight.
2d) Remove the H7 bulb from (flasher) socket and peel the rubber boot back. Surrounding the H7 bulb socket is a rubber boot. Peel back on the boot from the top to allow you to pass the Angel Eye wires through.
2e) Feed the Angel Eye wires from the front (above the reflector) to the back through the rubber boot.First unplug the four connectors from the wire harness. Second, to aid in the process, a thin copper wire will help you pull the wires through. Feed the thin copper wire through from the front to the back and through the boot opening. Wrap the wire around the Angel Eye wires and tape it down with electrical tape. Now pull it through from the boot side (back of headlight). Note, example images below are from a previous install using the umnitza Predator Chromium, however the process is the same for the Orion V2.
2f) (Optional, not recommended, skip to step 2g) Make a small incision on the rubber boot with a small pocket knife and feed wires through boot.This will allow you to pass the wires through the boot and also allow you to reinstall the boot around the socket opening without any gaps. Using needle nose pliers, grab one of the Angel Eye wires by the terminal and stick it through the boot opening that you made in the previous step. Then on the other side of the boot, use your needle nose pliers again to pull the wire through. Do this for the other 3 wires till all four wires are through. Note, example images below are from a previous install using the umnitza Predator Chromium, however the process is the same for the Orion V2. If you used this method, then skip to step 2h.
2g) (Only if you skipped step 2f) Bend wires around housing.Bend the wires around the headlight housing on the flat part of the bezel, not the raised part where the boot latches on to. (See image below).
2h) Connect wires and close the rubber boot.Since the wires come preinstalled with connectors, you can't get this wrong. Plug each of the four connectors to the harness.
(Optional: I used some 3M double sided tape to secure it to the back of the headlight. I also used electrical tape around the connector and wire loomed everything to give it a factory-like appearance. You can now reposition the boot and reinstall it.) You can now reinstall the H7 bulb.
2i) Repeat the above steps on the passenger headlight.
Step 3) Wire Harness Installation
3a) Lay the wire harness on top of the engine bay. The relay should be near the passenger side positive (+) battery terminal. See image below for the correct positive terminal. The shorter end of the harness coming from the relay should follow the passenger fender to the passenger headlight. The longer end should go across the engine to the driver's side fender towards the driver's side headlight.
3b) Ground the relay. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 10mm nut located in the passenger power terminal area. Mount your relay and ground here. The ground wire is the short black wire coming out of the relay with a ring terminal at the end of it. See picture below.
(NOTE: For a better ground, you should utilize the factory 19mm ground terminal as pictured in the previous step 3a)
3c) Route the short harness to the passenger side headlight.If you lift the weather stripping from the passenger side power terminal area, you can slide the harness under the factory harness bundle then route it down the passenger fender to the passenger headlight.
3d) Connect the passenger side angel eye harness to the relay harness.
(Optional: Soldering the connection along with use of heat shrink tubing will provide a permanent and secure connection.)
3e) Route the long harness across the top of the engine and secure it over the OEM wire holder.See pictures below.
3f) Route the long harness through to the brake fluid / ECU box area then down the drivers side fender.I chose to go through the OEM weather stripping as pictured below. Leave the trigger wire in the ECU box area for now and run the harness down the drivers fender (being as neat as possible).
3g) Connect the driver's side angel eyes harness to the relay harness.After running the harness down the driver's side, connect it to the Angel Eyes.
(Optional: Soldering the connection along with use of heat shrink tubing will provide a permanent and secure connection.)
3h) Connect the red wire from the relay to the positive (+) terminal found in the power terminal area.
(NOTE: If you have the OEM Navigation, make sure it is completely turned off and not on before beginning. There is a chance that your navigation can become damaged if you pull the power when it is powered on.)
First you must locate the OEM hood switch and unplug the connector. Next lift the weather stripping out of the way then lift the cover up by grabbing under where the positive terminal is. See first picture below. Use a 13mm socket to remove the 13mm nut from the positive terminal. Locate the red wire (with an inline fuse) coming out of the relay and mount it on the positive terminal. I chose to install the red wire underneath the OEM battery cable. Do the reverse to put it all back together then zip tie any lose cables. TIP: If you zip tie the inline fuse holder to the relay as pictured below (3rd pic on the right) you'll have easy access to the fuse).
3i) You are now ready to test your Angel Eyes.Coming off the relay should be a second trigger wire that is brown. Have someone touch the brown wire to the positive terminal or use a clamp then examine if your Angel Eyes work. If all is good, remove the brown wire from the positive terminal.
Step 4) Trigger Wire Installation
(To ECU Accessories wire for "Always On" method)
Note: The Accessories wire method is one of many ways to wire the Angel Eyes. This method will allow you to have the Angel Eyes on all the time whenever the car is running. This is independent of whether your headlights/parking lights are on or off. When you turn off your car, the Angel Eyes will stay on for a few seconds since there is still power through the accessories wire. This will not cause any power drain issues as the Angel Eyes do not draw a lot of power. Skip this step if you do not want the Angel Eyes on all the time. You can search the forums such as m3forum.com for other wiring methods.
4a) Open the cover to the ECU box using a Torx 25 bit to remove four Torx head screws.(Note: Some earlier cars might be HEX 27). Once the screws are removed, tilt the cover up and pull out.
4b) Locate the red wire with white stripe and yellow/gold tracers.Install your blue wire tap using your pliers. Make sure you center the wire tap, then squeeze down using your pliers. Do not sever the wire, DO NOT cut any wires, and DO NOT yank on any other wires. Be careful. :)
(Optional: Soldering the connection along with use of heat shrink tubing will provide a permanent and secure connection.)
4c) Route the red trigger wire into the ECU box and connect the terminal end to the blue wire tap.I chose to lift one of the rubber grommets and lay the red trigger wire underneath. You can fish it through the grommet if you like for a more professional look.
4d) Test the Angel Eyes by turning your ignition to position 2If your Angel Eyes light up then you are good to go and you can begin cleaning up the loose ends.
4e) Reinstall the ECU box cover at this point if your Angel Eyes are working ok.
Step 5) Clean Up
5a) Tape the 2nd Trigger wire.
5b) Zip tie the harness.
5c) (Optional, assuming you made a slit on the rubber boot from steps 2f) Use silicone or liquid electrical tape over the incision area on the rubber boot where the Angel Eye wires were installed.
5d) With the lense still off the headlights, check the Angel Eyes to make sure they are still aligned and in the proper position.
5e) Reinstall your headlight inner bezel.
5f) Reinstall your headlight lense and trim following the reverse procedures you following for removal.
5g) Using some wire loom, dress up the wires coming from the back of the headlights, the wires from the angel eyes, etc.
Step 6) Go out, drive your car, and enjoy your new Angel Eyes!!!
EPILOG :P
Hoppas att ni gillade detta, för att det hjälpte mig och nu kör jag med glädje då folk vänder sig om. Och observera, varken jag eller denna sida som jag delade info ifrån är ansvariga för fel eller skador som kam uppstå under monteringen. Men vafan, sånt räknar man ju alltid med :P
Denna inlägg läggar jag in på min blogg också här på Garaget utifall ni skulle tappa bort den bland alla inlägg, så det är bara att titta in :)
Mvh
R
PS: Video och bilder kommer på min bil :)